Between Saint-Malo and Mont-Saint-Michel, between Brittany and Normandy, in an enchanting landscape of rolling hills, dense forests, and winding roads, not far from an almost untouched coastline, lies an elegant 17th-century château, a historic monument known both for its spectacular gardens and for the literary figures of French literature who have passed through its gates.
As one approaches the estate, an enchanting universe, full of unexpected surprises, unfolds in the celebrated light of Brittany, a light that has inspired numerous painters, particularly the Impressionists. Built in 1620, this jewel-like château, set against a lush valley, has been associated with French literature since the 19th century. Among its guests are Balzac, Chateaubriand, Musset, Victor Hugo, the Marquis de la Rouërie, and Florence Arthaud.
The history of its gardens, redesigned and replanted over time, unfolds like a true roller coaster. The classical gardens laid out on the southern terrace were abandoned in the 17th century and turned into a potato field, before being revived again in 1973 through the intervention of architects Paul Maymont and François-Hébert Stevens, whose imprint remains visible today. Between 1989 and 1995, the gardens were once again abandoned, allowing wild nature to reshape the entire park. Only in 1996 were they rediscovered by the new owners, Marie-France Barrère and Alain Schrotter, who, with perseverance and dedication, transformed the estate into what can be seen today — a remarkable landscaped park that became, in 1999, a historic monument.
The gardens of La Ballue, among the most remarkable estates in 21st-century France, with their many “outdoor rooms”, connected through striking spatial sequences and areas composed with intricate topiary work, offer visitors a sense of harmony and poetic immersion. The garden design is strongly influenced by Mannerism.
At the entrance, a geometric terrace garden unfolds, defined by sharp lines, complex vegetal structures, and hedges that appear to complete the landscape itself. The entire composition is dramatic, articulated through three-dimensional vegetal volumes, organic forms, and groups of allegorical figures in movement.
Two very different gardens are arranged side by side across more than two hectares, their separation marked by an arcade covered in wisteria, extending between two rows of clipped hedges shaped as columns. Beyond this, a long tunnel formed by a delicate and almost mysterious interlacing of trees and wisteria leads to a second garden, like an initiatory passage in which the visitor moves between light and shadow, as in a dream.
Variety, surprise, and the interplay of light, shadow, and perspective define this garden, which reveals new discoveries in every season.
Photo courtesy of ©La Ballue, www.laballuejardin.com
Words by Andreea Dicianu
Discover the full version of this story in Volume I.